Travel

Tuscany. Selected
«Vinnaya Karta», September-November №4-6(105-107) 2009

In the end of last year Tuscan promotional agency Toscana Promozione together with International Federation of Wine Writers (FIJEV) organized two special press tours.

They were dedicated to estates whose wines were successful at the latest Selezione dei Vini di Toscana wine competition.

Selezione Vini is the second most important Italian wine competition after Vinitaly. It is held once every 2 years, the first event took place in 1989. The difference between this and other competitions is that, firstly, it is run on a non-commercial basis by a public organization Toscana Promozione and, secondly, has strictly regional coverage, being open only for wines of Tuscany. Samples are entered free of charge, and if a wine receives an award, a producer has a opportunity to include it in a catalogue for a modest fee of 100 euros. Besides, winners take part in special promotional events during the world’s leading fairs such as Vinitaly, Prowein, Vinexpo and London Wine & Spirits Fair. Separate tastings are also organised in US, Canada, China and Europe.

Wines are judged in 17 categories, of which around 80% accounted for red wines at the last event in 2008. An entry gets a diploma when it scores 82 points and higher (before the minimum score was 80). Special diplomas are given to wines evaluated higher than 85 points. Top five wines in each category receive diplomas of honour. Over 1,200 wines were entered in 2008, of which 807 got awards. The judging was done by several expert panels which consisted of industry professionals, sommeliers and journalists. In general, the Selezione Vini evaluation system helps to select quality wines from a diverse Tuscan offer, but top five wines in different categories may not always offer homogenously high level of quality, which leads to a certain confusion.

Tuscan estates find participation in Selezione Vini quite attractive. It is especially so for small producers who do not have budgets for advertising and promotion, but who can receive support for their wines through above mentioned activities. Even famous Tuscan wineries are happy to enter wines in the competition, as they find it a good additional instrument for promotions. In 2008 the competition counted 452 wineries from all Tuscan provinces who on average sent 2-3 samples each.

Our press tour gathered journalists from European countries and started in the capital of Tuscany, Florence. During dinner at Bernini Palace hotel, ideally located next to the city’s main square Piazza della Signoria, we were introduced to some good Tuscan wines — red Casa Emma 2006 from Chianti Classico, Le Sughere di Frassinello 2004 from Maremma, Grattamacco 2006 from Bolgheri and sweet Vin Santo Montemorli 2001 from Chianti. In the following three days we drove across half of Tuscany, with visits in Chianti Rufina and Chianti Colli Aretini, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano and Brunello di Montalcino, Morellino di Scansano and Maremma.

Visits started with Tenuta Bossi in Chianti Rufina, not far from Florence. Vineyards grow high on the hills, thus the area is known as the highest of all Chiantis. There was snow in the end of November, on the day of our trip, — first snow in Tuscany.

Tenuta Bossi belongs to an ancient aristocratic dynasty of marquises Gondi, their story going back to Charlemagne days. Throughout centuries the family was among the most influential at the Medici court — both in Florence and Paris. Military chiefs, archbishops, merchants and bankers were among the members of the Gondi family. Marchese Bernardo Gondi who was telling us about outstanding personalities of the family dynasty, kept apologizing if the story seemed boring. Not to me, though — it is uncommon to meet people with an amazing family history spanning over 12 centuries.

In late 16th century the Gondis bought Tenuta Bossi and made wine and olive oil since then. There are 20 hectares of vineyards, whilst the total area of agricultural crops and woods is 320 hectares. Chianti Rufina and Chianti Rufina Riserva wines are made traditionally. Fermentation takes place in cement vats, aging — in large Slavonian oak barrels which are known as botti. Only top wine, Villa Bossi Chianti Rufina Riserva, produced strictly in the best vintages, is partially vinified in barriques. Flavour profile of Tenuta Bossi Chianti Rufina wines reflects natural characteristics of Sangiovese grapes — freshness, floral aromas, flavours of red fruit and spices, with added light bitterness of the oak. Many call this unfashionable style rustic, but it ensures a long life for Marchesi Gondi wines. Not long before the tour I was fortunate to attend a tasting of Chianti Rufina wines from 1980-1990s vintages. My top three list had two entries from Tenuta Bossi — Villa Bossi Riserva 1990 and 1997, which presented Sangiovese grape in best light.

A few more Chianti Rufina wines which successfully performed at the competition were offered for tasting at Villa Poggio Reale, the headquarters of the producers’ consortium. Wines from Fattoria di Grignano stood out — elegant Chianti Rufina 2006 and intense, structured Poggio Gualtieri Chianti Rufina Riserva 2000 with notes of minerals and balsamic.

Our journey then lay to the eastern border of Tuscany, to the province of Arezzo where Chianti with a geographic reference of Colli Aretini (hills of Arezzo) is made. Roberto Droandi, third generation of family winemakers, owns an organic vineyard there. Along with growing Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Syrah, he works with an experimental plot planted to 50 little known indigenous Tuscan varieties. Thus since 1994 Mannucci Droandi estate is involved in a research project developed by The Experimental Winegrowing Institute of Italy. As Roberto reveals, not all varieties are suitable for quality winemaking after all, but four or five of them show promise. He singles out Foglia Tonda — a red grape that was first mentioned in the documents of Baron Ricasoli estate 200 years ago. Roberto Droandi recently released first production of Foglia Tonda 2006 — just 1,000 bottles. The wine has a distinct flavour profile, different from other Tuscan wines. It offers flavours of berries with a dominance of blueberries, whilst its tannic texture is quite pronounced. The winemaker admits that he doesn’t know Foglia Tonda’s full potential as he started to vinify it only 2-3 years ago. The wine’s solid structure, though, makes him believe that the results will be promising. Next year Roberto Droandi plans to release two more wines from rare Tuscan grapes — Barsaglina and Pugnitello.

While in the province of Arezzo, we were invited to Saverio and Adriana Luzzi. Ten years ago Saverio, neurologist by profession, bought splendid Villa La Ripa, built in late Renaissance. Luzzi’s wine story is similar to the story of many cult Californian estates when lawyers, doctors and other professionals with high income chose winemaking as a hobby. They were driven only by one aim — to make best possible wine.

Luzzi made the first vintage of his Tiratari wine in 2000. The grapes came from several rows of old vines previously planted at the villa. That year he developed a new vineyard parcel, having chosen Sangiovese, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah and Petit Verdot. The vineyard size is just 1,5 hectares, and the doctor doesn’t plan to increase it substantially. Perhaps, 2 more hectares will be planted in future, but not more. At present Villa La Ripa range includes two red wines — Tiratari, mainly Sangiovese, and Psyco, with equal parts of Sangiovese and Cabernet Sauvignon. Soon they will be joined by Nero, 100% Merlot. A mini-vertical of two latest vintages of Psyco and three Tiratari left a favourable impression. Doctor-winemaker chose an appealing style for his wines — it combines high quality, focus on inherent characteristics of the grapes, modern interpretation and a very careful, balanced use of winemaking techniques. Moreover, the quality of wines is improving with each vintage, and I dare say that in a few years Villa La Ripa will become one of Arezzo quality leaders.

If you happen to travel in this part of Tuscany, make sure your itinerary includes Cortona, an ancient town perched on the top of the hill. It is one of those tiny genuine gems of Tuscany that offers remarkable history going back to Etruscan times, authentic architecture and many churches which remind of Cortona’s former religious power.

Next day our journey brought us to two well known wine areas — Vino Nobile di Montepulciano and Brunello di Montalcino. Montepulciano is another small historic town that dominates the landscape thanks to its high position on the hill. One of the old cobbled streets houses Crociani cellars — they can be reached only on foot or in a small town bus that can get past those narrow streets. Crociani is a small traditional family estate. It owns 10 hectares of vineyards and 6 hectares of olive groves. Rosso, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano and Riserva wines are also quite traditional. Sangiovese, Canaiolo and Mammolo are used, and wines are aged in big botti.

In the meantime, another Vino Nobile di Montepulciano estate, Lodola Nuova, is among the area’s leaders. It has 89 hectares of vineyards. Modern production facilities have shining steel, but the company representatives say that their winemaking philosophy is built on traditional values. That’s why Vino Nobile di Montepulciano wine is aged in 5,000 litre Slavonian oak casks. The latest news is that Lodola Nuova launched a Syrah wine made in Cortona DOC area. The small denomination is known as a quality centre for Syrah in Italy. Carlo Ferrini, famous Tuscan enologist, is invited as a consultant. Thanks to him 14 new conical fermentation vats were introduced to the winery. They are a favourite working tool for Ferrini, and are present practically in all estates where he is involved. Syrah Cortona 2006 is a successful debut. The wine features impeccably clean, lifted floral and fruity aromas, typical for the grape, intense flavours, dominated by flowers and spices, and a full chocolaty finish. The vintage is already on the market, but it is best to wait at least a few months before opening a bottle, to ensure a better integration of aromas and flavours.

Carlo Ferrini’s trace in a form of conical fermenting vats was also seen in Casato Prime Donne estate in Montalcino. Ferrini is an only man who works in a senior position in the winery. All other key posts are taken by women. This is the policy to which owner Donatella Cinelli Colombini adheres. Rosso, Brunello di Montalcino и Riserva are made, as well as a special version of Brunello called “Progetto Prime Donne”. Four female wine experts from different countries work on it. At present the estate is staging on a curious experiment. A portion of must for future Brunello ferments with a help of yeasts obtained at Casato Prime Donne vineyards. Thus Cinelli Colombini hopes that, on the one hand, the process of fermentation will be more controlled, and on the other — that signature aromas and flavours of grapes from her vineyards will be preserved in full.

To the south of Montalcino, in Grosseto province, lies Morellino di Scansano wine zone which, like many others in Tuscany, specializes on Sangiovese. Its status was recently promoted, and now it is one of seven Tuscan regions in the top DOCG tier. Vineyards of a well known estate Fattoria Le Pupille grow close to Scansano. Elisabetta Geppetti has managed it since 1985. She achieved international recognition thanks to Saffredi wine which was first made over 20 years ago. Saffredi, a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Alicante, was among the pioneers of the Supertuscan movement on the coast of Tuscany. The tasting of the latest ready vintage, 2005, revealed a wine with focused, elegant, lifted aromas of ripe cherries and plums, a fresh, wonderfully balanced palate with flavours of fruit, milk chocolate and balsamic, lightly drying tannins and a full finish.

One of the most memorable tours took place in the end of the tour. Poggio Verrano is a young winery in Maremma, its story starting in 2000. Francesco Bolla of a famous winemaking dynasty in Valpolicella initiated a greenield project on the Tuscan coast. In 2005 he officially presented the first vintage of his flagship red wine Dromos 2003 at Vinitaly tasting in Moscow. Then Russia also became the first export market for the wine. Francesco Bolla finds symbolic the fact that a new wine from a new winery was shipped first not to a traditional market like Britain or Switzerland, but to a young and developing market in Russia.

Poggio Verrano is organized in a manner of a Bordeaux chateau. The winery is built in the centre, but it is almost hidden from the view thanks to its particular design — the building is constructed mostly inside the hill. Twenty seven hectares of vineyards are spread around. Five red grape varieties are grown — Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Sangiovese, Alicante and Cabernet Franc. The winery was built with an idea to symbolize a road, a way — that’s how the word Dromos is translated from the ancient Etruscan language. Not all internal decorative works are finished, but the winery is promising to be an architectural gem in its genre. Besides Dromos, a blend of 5 varieties, Dromos L’Altro, mostly Sangiovese wine, is made. Soon a third wine will be introduced, though at the moment it remains a secret. Production reflects the idea of the highest possible quality, with Carlo Ferrini consulting. The sense of place is unmistakably felt in the wines, and their style is elegant and complex. It is not surprising, then, that in a short period Poggio Verrano wines achieved an enviable reputation. In Italy alone they are present in 18 Michelin starred restaurants.

The programme of visits and tastings was intense. It once again confirmed an amazing diversity of winemaking practices in Tuscany. The interest to the region will remain strong also because work philosophy and wine styles of different estates will never be identical. It is important that winegrowers and winemakers remember about quality and about a precious link between wine and territory — then Tuscany will not be under threat of losing the title of one of the world’s greatest winemaking regions.