Travel

At the foothills of the Pyrenees
«Vinnaya Karta» №3(111) April-May 2010

From an unknown corner at the foothills of the Pyrenees Mountains to one of the most dynamic and recognised wine regions in Spain — that’s the story of modern Somontano.

This was made possible thanks to support from regional authorities, significant private investments, construction of ultra-modern wineries, clever marketing and, naturally, favourable natural conditions which are suitable for production of high quality grapes.

Festival Vino, annual wine and music marathon, takes place in Somontano capital Barbastro in the first week of August. For several days local bullfighting arena is transformed into a stage where best musicians and dancers perform, from Joakin Cortes to Julio Iglesias, to ABBA and Joe Cocker. This popular Spanish event is organised by Somontano wine producers together with their Regulating Council. Along with concerts, guests enjoy tours to local wineries and landmarks, as well as “Gastronomic Extravaganza” with wine and tapas. Can there be a better way to attract tourists to a wine region? It is not surprising then that the Spanish place Somontano wines next to renowned Rioja and Ribera del Duero when they answer which wines of their country they know best.

Of course, the wine and music festival is not the only reason why Somontano wines have such great recognition in Spain. In 1984, when the area was awarded DO (Denominacion de Origen) status, or controlled origin of wines, only 4 wineries worked there. Today the region enjoys a unique for Spain situation of consolidated production, when 32 wineries annually make over 15 mln. bottles of wine from a total of 4,700 hectares of vineyards. Main production is concentrated within three companies — Vinas del Vero, Bodega Pirineos and Enate, whose share exceeds 80% of all DO wine. Several other young companies have capacity to produce over a million bottles that hasn’t yet been reached. Large producers can offer big brands to the market, and this marketing know-how is a strong point of Somontano’s leading wineries.

Historically, a major force was Somontano del Sobrarbe cooperative, founded in 1964 to unite small individual growers. Largely thanks to this company Somontano wine area was promoted to DO over a quarter of a century ago. In 1993 the cooperative was transformed into a shareholding company called Bodega Pirineos. The Aragon government was a major shareholder. Initial investments went to build a modern winemaking facility. In 2007 76% of shares were bought by Jerez producer Barbadillo, while the rest remained with growers. Today 200 farmers work in Bodega Pirineos, owning in total 1,000 hectares of vineyards. While annually producing 5 million bottles, the company has made their market range fairly simple. There are only two brands — traditional Montesierra and more eclectic Pirineos, launched 5 years ago to offer exciting styles or blends at lesser volumes. Along with international Merlot, Chardonnay or Gewurztraminer, commonly cultivated in Somontano, Bodega Pirineos is working with authentic local varieties, such as red Moristel and Parraleta.

It is fair to say that Vinas del Vero is Somontano’s leading light today. It stands out for a number of reasons. The company was founded on the capital of two banks, a private holding and a state structure in 1986, soon after Somontano received a DO. In July 2007 Vinas del Vero was acquired by famous Jerez producer Gonzalez Byass who is actively developing the segment of dry unfortified wines. This is a new paradox: two biggest Somontano wineries now have owners from Jerez. Vinas del Vero works with the largest vineyard area in DO Somontano — 1,160 hectares, of which 750 are company owned. In 2008 the company produced 6 mln. bottles of wine. Vinas del Vero has an impressive size, but, more importantly, the company has become a quality locomotive of the area. The range is hierarchically divided into 6 levels, the base and the middle parts include four Vinas del Vero brands, while Secastilla and Blecua crown the peak. Excellent quality is notable at all levels, including basic, thus proving that mass produced wine can (and must) be made well. Meanwhile, Secastilla and Blecua projects are run independently from Vinas del Vero operation. Named after seven fortified villages, Secastilla is unique thanks to 75-85-year-old Garnacha vineyards which the company found in stunningly beautiful mountainous area in the north-east of Somontano. New vines, obtained by massal selection, are being planted next to the old ones. Blecua is a first class project, with a separate boutique winery aimed to produce best possible wine. There is only one eponymous label, a blend of four red varieties (Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Garnacha and Tempranillo) and a result of multiple selection of the best vineyards, vintages and barrels. Blecua is an absolute champion among Somontano wines and one of the best examples of modern Spanish winemaking.

Top three leading companies also include Enate, which is known both to wine lovers and art connoisseurs. When Enate was founded in 1991, the idea was to start a new tradition in Somontano that would present wine in artistic light and that would have a strong link between winemaking and art. The idea since remained unchanged. Enate undoubtedly leaves a great impression on visitors. One notes clean, straight lines, unexpected solutions for space, well thought out use of natural and artificial light and — despite a huge area of 12,000 square metres — a precious sensation that the winery is immersed into natural environment. The bottling area, perfectly suited for an avant-garde industrial show, impresses as much as famed aging cellars. The latter occupy 1,500 square metres and can store up to 4,000 barrels. Their much publicized photos with red barrels, red ceiling and two connecting lines of light in a faraway perspective can be called the winery’s second signature. Why second? Because first come works of art. Starting from its debut vintage in 1992, Enate features reproductions of paintings by leading modern Spanish artists on the labels. As they say in Enate, each bottle is a tribute to art. These paintings are but a small part of the collection which currently counts over 180 works presented in a winery’s gallery. Around ten famous Spanish names such as Antoni Tapies, Eduardo Chilida, Antonio Saura, Salvador Victoria and others made artworks especially for Enate. The winery keeps in contact with all artists or their families, and this friendship certainly makes it easier for Enate to purchase new works for the collection. The winery also has a special fund to support young promising artists. One artist receives 12,000 euros as an Art fellowship every year. After spectacular art presentation, a visitor expects at least fine, if not outstanding, examples of the winemaking skill. The wines do have a certain quality level, yet, with a couple of exceptions, they are heavily extracted, have too much oak, an obvious ‘commercial’ taste and lack the elegance which is supremely shown through the artistic side of the winery.

In the meantime, Enate inspired at least another two estates to build ultra-designer wineries. Laus and Irius are symbolic gates to Somontano. They adorn the southern part and compete with each other to attract travellers’ attention. Some like the futuristic form of Irius with its glistening metallic shell. Others, including me, find the minimalistic design of Laus extraordinary. It is designed in harmony with natural forces of soil, water and other elements. Such projects help develop tourism and attract additional interest to Somontano wines.